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Author Topic: Boring out air adapter  (Read 1454 times)
spec21
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« Reply #15 on: June 01, 2008, 10:34:39 am »

When Doc Nickel was making a lot of SHO kits for the Phatom, he found shoot down to start at 6-8 balls per sec with a standard Nelson valve.

The old Trracer auto cocking kits had this problem too.

With polished internals and a well broke in and well setup gun, these speeds are quite possible with a standard Phantom while ATing. Some of us can shoot faster with our pumps than walkons with Tipps and Spyders.
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1996XJ
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« Reply #16 on: June 01, 2008, 04:59:40 pm »

I pulled out my tippmann 98 for the first time in a while since i my new barrel hasnt arrived yet.  I found that my Phantom shoots almost twice as fast as a stock tippmann.

I remember playing one time when i autotriggered this player who never did see me.  Anyways as we were walking off the field the kids friend tells him that he got eliminated by the "pump player".  He kept denying it saying that a pump couldnt shouot that fast Cheesy

I will prob borrow someones 68/4500 to see if the reg makes a difference.
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Have Blue
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« Reply #17 on: June 01, 2008, 10:46:32 pm »

HPA technically would have to expand since every time you shoot a lower pressure area will be created around the valve til gas from the tank EXPANDS into the expansion area.  But not nearly as much as co2.

Yes, any gas expands as you move from a higher pressure to a lower one (PV=nRT).  However, expansion chambers (or any other dead volume before the valve chamber itself) are useless for HPA (and detrimental to your efficiency).  I suppose an expansion chamber (really a reservoir, not no much an expansion chamber) could briefly help alleviate shootdown if you have a poor regulator - you'd need far more volume than would be available from boring out the valve body, however.
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Gotpaint92
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« Reply #18 on: June 05, 2008, 09:28:48 am »

Could the springing be an issue?  Weak springs could cause the inconsistancy and drop down. 

Maybe a new mainspring and valve spring would help. 
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1996XJ
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« Reply #19 on: June 05, 2008, 09:30:24 pm »

I replaced the springs a couple months ago.


It made me mad last weekend when i autotriggered this player from about 15-20ft away and all the hits bounced, he the proceeded to light me up with his 08 EGO Sad
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Punishers Customs
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« Reply #20 on: June 06, 2008, 02:32:27 pm »

Here's something that occurred  to me just now....

You may have a situation where mechanical tolerances have stacked against you.
All manufactured item have some dimensional tolerance. Usually +/- a couple thou. Nothing detrimental until you get several parts  that are under or over tolerance at the limits. If the trigger pin location is on the high end or tolerance (as in closer to the gun body when assembled) and the seat is a couple thou too large (outline), or perhaps the gripframe mounting screw holes are set forward by a couple thou then in combination with several other possibilities then you could certainly run into something like this.

If you can prove for certain that it's not a supply issue which I still think is your culprit, then you might be able to steal some of the performance back. Add a set screw to your trigger shoe to act as a trigger stop. By adjusting it to the absolute minimum travel needed to light the thing off you might be able to delay the sear trip while auto triggering enough to save some fps.

I still think it's the reg.....
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1996XJ
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« Reply #21 on: June 06, 2008, 04:06:10 pm »

Are you saying that the trigger could possibly be tripping the hammer before the mainspring is fully compressed Huh?

Still havent tried swapping tanks yet.

Thank you everyone for all the suggestions so far.
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Gotpaint92
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« Reply #22 on: June 06, 2008, 06:02:00 pm »

Hmm, this really stumps me.  Try switching out tanks for sure.  If that's not the problem, I'd take that gun completely appart and examine everything closely, look for any minor defect that could be part of the problem. 
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thkyle
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« Reply #23 on: June 06, 2008, 07:59:37 pm »

Are you saying that the trigger could possibly be tripping the hammer before the mainspring is fully compressed Huh?

Still havent tried swapping tanks yet.

Thank you everyone for all the suggestions so far.

No, what he said was that it could be possible that the sear is being tripped before the bolt/spring/hammer is all the way forward. If there is a few items that are a few thousands of an inch off from specs.

The main spring is totally compressed when you pull the pump arm back all the way and stays totally compressed during the entire travel forward until the sear makes contact with the trigger and it gets released.

PPS used to offer a trigger shoe with a set screw designed to limit the travel of the trigger. The idea was to set it so that the trigger would stop at exactly the release point. This would, in effect, give you the ability to overcome the problem mentioned above, if there is one.

First........you should try a different tank and reg.
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