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Author Topic: Tuning for Consistency  (Read 344 times)
greenmtn
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« on: October 07, 2011, 05:04:11 am »

I've read a lot and done a lot with tuning for efficiency.

On NOG B makes the comment a few times that you trade off consistency for efficiency with some spring setups. 

Have any suggestions for springing for consistency?

I know the standard answers of good paint, good paint bore match.  What about internals?
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« Reply #1 on: October 09, 2011, 01:48:43 pm »

If springs are unbalanced there will not be a good consistency as one or the other will overwhelm the other.  With some spring set up like a red red on some guns you may loose efficiency due to too much hammer strike and bounce.  No two guns are a like if you want efficiency consistency is a by product, not the other way around. Best base line to start with on any gun is to see what it does as it came or is set up now, to give you a base line to work with for tuning.   Most people want efficiency so they do not have to change 12g as much, start with the shortest dwell spring toy have ( usually red) and match that with a main spring.

Biggest efficiency robber is a TPC ,the TPC acts as a diffuser that changes the form of vapor to gas prematurely robbing potential phase change , this effect efficiency. 

A well worn or prepped Phantom is very capable with the correct set up to get 50 shots consistently at 270-260 fps


one big tip lube dose not say on two smooth surfaces one need to have a bit of tooth to hold the lube usually the body not the hammer and bolt
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thkyle
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« Reply #2 on: October 09, 2011, 08:46:57 pm »

Some great advise to experiment with right now with these mild fall temps. Consistent accurate shots win more often then extras that are hard to predict. IMHO
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greenmtn
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« Reply #3 on: October 10, 2011, 05:10:58 am »

Thanks guys.

I did find that the Open TPC that ASP is doing now helped a lot with efficiency.

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« Reply #4 on: October 10, 2011, 10:51:24 am »

weather does not usually effect my tuned guns only at the extremes do they show effects (+85F/35F)
 
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greenmtn
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« Reply #5 on: October 10, 2011, 04:42:40 pm »

B whats your take on using Madmann Cocker springs in a Nelson without cutting them?
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« Reply #6 on: October 10, 2011, 05:17:12 pm »

2k cocker springs are too long they add too much spring tension

pre 2k are ok to go
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greenmtn
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« Reply #7 on: October 11, 2011, 06:18:54 am »

Good to know.

Now to get back to work on my projects. Thanks for the help, I'm sure as always, I'll have more questions.
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« Reply #8 on: October 11, 2011, 01:26:44 pm »

main spring 2" max
valve spring 1"
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greenmtn
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« Reply #9 on: October 12, 2011, 05:05:29 am »

I wish Nelson spring kits were easier to get a hold of.  CCI is there but the lack of different valve springs limits that one.  Rumor had it that LAPCo was thinking about it but I haven't seen anything come out yet. I was thinking about trying to put something together and have springs made but then life got in the way and it never happened.
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« Reply #10 on: October 12, 2011, 05:04:16 pm »

springs are off the shelf they are just color coated MSC and McMaster Carr have them you just have to search and have some wire diameter measurements

I use to have a chart it is long lost now since my last order , then i fell into a huge lot of old springs  so I never wet back to get the list again

if you have the skills you can cut and reloop the 2k cocker springs, it is easier with a looping tool but it can be done with out it.
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greenmtn
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« Reply #11 on: October 13, 2011, 05:59:29 am »

This is the information I have already for them

Main spring is 2.0" long, about 0.48" od, 0.375" id
Valve spring is 1.0" long, about 0.36" od, about 0.265" id

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