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Author Topic: Annodizing my Phantom!  (Read 1764 times)
Modokun
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« Reply #15 on: December 31, 2007, 04:35:01 pm »

Okay, I figured out why I was counting so few parts on my stock and then counted all of the parts on the gun. (I have an L-Stock Tongue)

-Barrel
-UC Kit attachment thing
- Frame Assembly
- 45 Grip
- Air Adapter
- Trigger Shoe
- Feed Tube
- Breech
- L stock (2 Parts)

But I have one question, Can the 12 Gram piercer be annoed? How do you take out the puncture seal and adapter?
So, 12 parts if the piercer can be taken apart.

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       Štephen      +2/-0
BAMF-HacKeR
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« Reply #16 on: January 02, 2008, 05:18:53 pm »

Use a large flat head screw driver and take out the pierce assembly.

Also the UC kit is 2 pieces.

Don't forget to remove the pins from the receiver and the inserts from the valve body and breech.
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Modokun
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« Reply #17 on: January 02, 2008, 07:05:54 pm »

Quote
Don't forget to remove the pins from the receiver and the inserts from the valve body and breech.
Say wha?
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       Štephen      +2/-0
Unimoose
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« Reply #18 on: January 02, 2008, 08:54:30 pm »

The pins are what hold the trigger parts in place, they like the trigger parts need to be removed.  The inserts in the valve and body are what the thumbscrews go into.  These parts can not be ano'ed.
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BAMF-HacKeR
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« Reply #19 on: January 03, 2008, 06:34:52 am »

These are the inserts that keeps the gun together, there is another one more on the top of the stock class feed.


Here is the trigger frame pins


They are all steel and need to be removed prior to anno.  The trigger pin can be knocked out using a punch, but the other two need to be cut out and replaced with new ones.

(pictures are borrowed, until I can get my Phantom apart for better pics)
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Modokun
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« Reply #20 on: January 03, 2008, 08:12:47 am »

What do you mean by cut out? And how do you remove the other inserts?
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       Štephen      +2/-0
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« Reply #21 on: January 03, 2008, 06:21:04 pm »

Take a look at your trigger assembly.  All but one of the pins goes all the way through the body so they can simply be driven out.  One of the pins only goes in part way and is then cut off.  That pin will have to be removed the way it came in.  That single pin is what makes re-anoing a phantom a major PITA.
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Modokun
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« Reply #22 on: January 03, 2008, 06:36:40 pm »

"That pin will have to be removed the way it came in." By that you mean pulled out?

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       Štephen      +2/-0
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« Reply #23 on: January 03, 2008, 06:43:59 pm »

well unless you can get a gremlin to crawl inside and push it the only option is pull now isn't it?  Actually it will have to be drilled and then pulled because there is no physical way to "grab" it as it sits currently.

 As I suggested before you should really talk to a place that does ano work.
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Aardvark
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« Reply #24 on: January 03, 2008, 07:56:37 pm »

This type of trouble makes me wonder if it isn't just significantly easier to call Mike and see if you can arrange to buy a new raw phantom.
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Dave "Aardvark" Wise
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« Reply #25 on: January 03, 2008, 08:51:18 pm »

Aardvark- You can in fact by phantoms in raw and then get them anoed to your likings and then send it back to Mike to assembly it.

Listen to Unimoose he knows what he is talking about.
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BAMF-HacKeR
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« Reply #26 on: January 04, 2008, 04:32:02 am »

I had Mike re-assemble my frame.  He had it back to me very quickly. 
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Modokun
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« Reply #27 on: January 04, 2008, 09:44:22 am »

Okay i'm done quizing you AMATUERS Tongue Ima talk to Mike and get things sorted out in my head.
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       Štephen      +2/-0
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« Reply #28 on: January 10, 2008, 10:02:42 pm »

Mike actually cries when you say the words "reanodize" and "my phantom" in the same e-mail.

He always tells you "it can be done" but with a caveat, and that he will sell you a raw phantom for you to send to the anodizer, and then you send it back to him where he will do the assembly and laser engraving.
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